[p. 20]

SALT LAKE AND FORT MOJAVE W. R. EXPRESS, 

CAMP 31, FORT MOJAVE, ARIZONA TERRITORY

Wednesday, June 22, 1864.

SIR: I have the honor to submit herewith preliminary report of this expedition to this camp; a full and complete map of my route, together with a complete history of the expedition, will be furnished as soon as practicable after my arrival at Camp Douglas. It is intended to furnish in this preliminary report sufficient information to enable the general commanding district of Utah to determine how far the expedition was successful, to what extent it succeeded in accomplishing his wishes, and whether a route from the Colorado river to Salt Lake City can be made superior to the present route from Carson City to Salt Lake, or equal to it.

In obedience to the letter of instructions of May 7, 1864, from headquarters district of Utah, 1 left Forney on the morning of the 9th May, 1864, with Lieutenant Conrad and sixty-one non-commissioned officers and men, four six-mule teams, and sixty-four government horses. I arrived at Fort Crittenden on the 11th May, from which point I was instructed to commence operations.  
[p. 21]
I have determined to move the column and teams by the San Bernardino road, sending out small parties to my west to explore the country. Upon arrival at Muddy creek the wisdom of this measure was apparent for had I attempted to haul my teams on any one of the routes run by my side scouts I would have been destitute of horses and means of transportation long before arrival at Mountain Meadows. I moved the column by easy marches to Mountain Meadows, a distance of 302 1/4 miles, in sixteen days, having good water and grass along the route, with as fine a road as I ever travelled over. To this point six of my horses had become unserviceable and were run in the herd. Two of my teams gave evidence of failing and I commenced feeding them from my private grain; at this point I also erected a monument in memory of the victims of the Mountain Meadow massacre, which fact was at that time communicated to you in an official letter. From Mountain Meadow to Muddy creek my stock failed rapidly. I employed every means in my power to keep it up, making short drives, working at the teams whenever a pull was required, and keeping a working party ahead to improve the road. The distance was ninety-eight miles, and I occupied nine days in travelling it, besides resting at Mountain Meadows for two days, and then did not get two of the teams into camp at Muddy creek until three days after making the camp; was compelled to pack the loads in and give the mules empty wagons, which they could scarcely haul. Leaving the Rio Virgin for Muddy creek, have to rise a large hill, one mile long; at that point was compelled to pack outfit on horses, then place all mules to wagons, and sixty men with ropes in addition, to get them on top of the hill. It was not so much the condition of the route which broke down my means of transportation, as it was the fact of having old and worn-out mules, who commenced failing on a road which was equal to a turnpike. I made camp 24, on Muddy creek, June 3, 1864, having succeeded in getting all my stock in excepting one mule; one horse died, and one horse strayed. Total distance from Forney, 396 miles, 6 furlongs, and 21 rods. My side scouts from Fort Crittenden to Muddy creek are as follows: One from Fort Crittenden to Round valley, via Tontic valley, Oak creek, and Sevier river, 101 miles. One from Radford's to Cedar City, via Deseret settlement, Sevier river, Sevier lake, sink of Bear and Black Rock Springs; distance, l56 miles. No wagons accompanied either of these scouts. Neither could wagons have accompanied them, the mutes being across heavy sand, rank growth of sage brush, no grass, and but little water on routes, and it at long intervals. The third and most important side scout started from Corn creek, south of Fillmore, taking with it one six-mule team, the best one I had, with twenty days' rations. This scout, after almost superhuman exertions, succeeded in making New Mines west of Beaver City, and passing down to Black mountains were forced to come in my route to San Bernardino road at Mountain Meadows; distance travelled, 350 miles. All of these scouts reported barren, desolate country, and no chance to run a natural wagon road where there could be found wood, water, and grass. A care-fully prepared map of each of these side scouts has been made, together with complete daily journal, which will be submitted with final report. 13v means of these Scouts I was possessed with much valuable information, and succeeded in running a complete line from Fort Crittenden to Clover and Meadow valleys, to within a distance of seventy miles of Muddy creek, and at one point on the side scout, living 115 miles west of Beaver City. The last-named scout joined me at Muddy creek on 5th June. having occupied twenty days, with team and horses much jaded. It thus became evident to me that I could not continue the expedition with all of my teams and horses, and accordingly left Sergeant Gass with fifteen men at Muddy, having in charge two wagons, nineteen horses, and eleven mules, together with all of outfit. not absolutely necessary for me to have, and by reducing rations of those who were to accompany me, was enabled to leave him rations for thirty days. He was instructed to run lines from  
[p. 22]
Muddy to Clover valley, as soon as horses were rested enough to do so. and to await at that point (Muddy) orders from me. None of the horses or mules left behind were in condition to cross to the Vegas; in fact, could not have them drove across the desert loose.

I left Muddy on Tuesday evening, June 7, 1864, with forty-five men, forty-seven horses, and ten teams, having only provisions and water barrels on them. The men were reduced to one blanket, and their saddle-bags, each containing one shirt, one pair of drawers, and one pair of socks, Mr. Conrad and self doing the same, leaving all our mess kid, bedding, &c, at :Muddy; succeeded in crossing the desert without much trouble, and found at Vegas plenty of excellent water and grass. Had to leave at that place two horses, which could not have proceeded any further. After resting there until evening of the 9th of June, resumed march from Las Vegas for El Dorado canon; distance, forty-four miles. Travelled to Musquit springs that night, when halted until daybreak, using the spring water, which was very bad. Next day (l0th) resumed march; After travelling up grade eighteen miles, halted at grass; mules and horses much exhausted. Gave horses three quarts of water each, and men had one quart each issued to them. Wagons and troops then separated, former taking road, latter taking trail. We made water in maintains. which stood in pot-holes in the rocks, and was only rain-water; about dark horses were crazy for water, and had the men been compelled to travel five miles further some of them would have gone crazy. On this route four horses gave out and had to be shot. Next morning went down into El Dorado canon, and made camp 27; water enough standing in canon for stock, but no grass; teams came in some two or three hours afterwards; mules scarcely able to stand in the harness. I remained in canon until next day in the afternoon, when resumed march for Mojave; arrived at Lewis springs with many of the horses exhausted; men nearly all walking. Upon arrival at springs could not obtain water enough for the stock. Horses arrived there at about reveille; team mules did not get in until middle of afternoon, and then only brought in one wagon. It became evident to me that I would be compelled to leave them. Had taken precaution to send party from El Dorado canon to Mojave by river trail, and knew that fresh mules would come out in a few days. Left Sergeant Gordon and nine men at Lewis springs with the teams; also left with them about all the provisions I had; also left with him two horses who could not travel any further. Six additional horses were shot or left on route from El Dorado canon to Lewis springs, making a total of twelve horses shot or left at water and grass since leaving Muddy. I then started from Lewis springs for Rock springs, with twenty-five horses, all told, and upon arrival there found no water for stock; drove then out to Government Hole, where they obtained enough to quench thirst; found a stray cow and shot her for meat; next day resumed march for Piute creek, and from Piute creek arrived here on the 16th instant, completely worn out and exhausted, half the men bare-footed, horses scarcely able to walk, not because they were poor from flesh, but because the route from Vegas here affords but little grass and water, and where the grass is there is no water, and where water is found there is no grass. I was very thankful that I had suceeded in getting here. At Piute creek met six fresh mules going out to meet my wagons, taking also some provisions to the men. From Fillmore to Cedar City the route makes a circle into the east, and I ran three observation lines as follows: one from Coon creek to Beaver City, one from Coon creek to Parowan, and one from Coon creek to Cedar City. None of these are practicable for want of water and grass; the streams starting out from the mountains do not run down more than from one to six miles, excepting Beaver creek. I found the maps extant of the country through which I travelled very incorrect; no reliance whatever can he placed upon the maps for any portion south of Fillmore. From the distance from Forney to El Dorado canon, 488 mules, and from Forney to Fort Mojave,  
[p. 23]
585 miles 4 furlongs and 19 rods. The route can be shortened from El Dorado canon probably twenty-five or thirty miles, and from Fort Mojave at least sixty miles, which will be done on return trip. On Thursday (21) despatched an express for Muddy, with orders to Sergeant Gass to resume line of march for Forney. I cannot obtain any fresh teams or horses at this post; there are but few animals here and they are in but little better condition than my own.

The condition of my stock may be stated as follows : Left at Muddy, June 7, 1864, nineteen horses and eleven mules, worn out and unserviceable; left at Las Vegas, June 9, 1864, two horses, unserviceable; shot on route to Rock springs ten horses; left at Rock springs two horses; left at Lewis springs twelve mules and ten horses. Total rendered unserviceable on route, including mule and horse died before reaching Muddy and one horse strayed, twenty-four mules and forty-five horses. My team mules were driven in yesterday; the stock I have here will not be in condition to resume travel for at least one month, and I doubt my ability to return much of it to Forney; plenty of provisions can be obtained here, but I do not purpose taking full supply when starting, only enough to supply to Mountain Meadow, intending that teams will meet me from Forney at or near that point. You will be advised fully of my plan of operation in time to meet me at Mountain Meadow, should I so adopt.

I repeat that the condition of my stock was not caused so much by the character of the road as it is from the fact that the team mules were old, worn out, and almost unserviceable at the start for a march of such magnitude; the delay of the teams also delayed the troop, keeping it in poor range much longer than it would have been had the teams been serviceable. You will remember that at Forney I remarked that not less than fifteen of my horses were totally unfit for this expedition. I made the same remark to the general commanding, and was told that he could not do better for me. This I believe, and am satisfied I had as good an outfit as could be at that time furnished. Yet the fact cannot be denied that the outfit was entirely inadequate to the wants of the expedition; as a natural result, the route proved severe upon both men and animals, and both frequently suffered intensely from want of water and also from fatigue, incident to misfortune of getting through with broken down teams. As soon as the teams commenced failing I issued private grain belonging to Mr. Conrad and self, amounting to eight hundred pounds.

As regards the route I have fully made up my mind as follows: while I will not yet say that road cannot be opened west of present travelled route until I learn result of line run from Muddy to Clover valley, am decided that no nearer, better, or more practicable road can be run than the present one from Forney to Las Vegas; and having travelled from Carson City to Salt Lake over the mail road, state without any hesitation that the route I have travelled to mouth of El Dorado canon is superior in every respect to it, and that the total length of route need not exceed 150 miles. There is no occasion to run the southern terminus of road below El Dorado canon. Steamboats can navigate the river as easily to the canon, or a point eight miles above it, as they can and do to La Pax, two hundred miles south of Mojave.

I will locate the southern terminus of road either at mouth of El Dorado canon or at a landing eight miles above, running from thence to Las Vegas, to Muddy, Virgin river, Clara river, Mountain Meadows, Cedar, Beaver, Fillmore, west side of Utah Lake to Salt Lake City. Nature of road as follows : From El Dorado canon, 44 miles desert, to Las Vegas, where find most excellent water and grass; from Las Vegas to Muddy, 47 miles desert, where find good water and abundance of grass; from Muddy to Virgin, 20 miles, good road; on Virgin to Beaver, down, 32 miles sandy road, heavy hauling; from Beaver down to Clara river: good road; from Clara river to Mountain Meadows, heavy room; from Mountain Meadows to Salt Lake City, 302 1/4, a turnpike road, supplied with wood, water, and grass; longest drive on it without water is 27 miles. Best  
[p. 24]
time to start freight trains from El Dorado canon, on or about 20th of April, as follows: A train of one hundred government wagons, divided into five parts, each part two days in advance of rear, each twenty wagons to have two grain and water wagons along, and every wagon to have water barrel holding twenty-five gallons. Feed grain to Mountain Meadows; any how haul water to Muddy creek. From these two points load grain and water wagons from other teams, and the through trip can be made in twenty-six to twenty-eight days easy. So well satisfied am I of this fact, would be willing to take charge of such a train and stake my commission on bringing it through without loss of an animal, except from natural causes, provided that at the start the outfit was of a. No. 1. quality. To start out any other kind of stock would simply result in delays and losses, and also injure the reputation of the route. It is useless to run a road from the canon at Fort Mojave. It would make nearly one hundred miles additional land carriage, over a country poorly supplied with water and grass.

The Colorado river can be navigated to El Dorado canon with greater ease than the Sacramento river can be navigated from Knight's Landing to Red Bluff, using the same kind of boats as are employed on the upper Sacramento river. There are no obstructions in the Colorado river, excepting the casual shifting of sand bars which is peculiar to the Missouri, Mississippi, and Sacramento rivers. No appropriations of public money are necessary to improve the navigation of the river. Rich mines are located along it from a point 70 miles south of La Paz to the mouth of the Virgin. The country is rapidly filling up with an energetic people, and private enterprises can easily do all that is required, and receive handsome profit from any outlay thus made.

The so-termed Colorado Steam Navigation Company runs one heavy, good-for-nothing boat to La Paz, which town property is mostly owned by that arrangement. Instead of placing good boats on the river, the company act as though it wished to retard the opening of the country, and it is my decided opinion that this company is seeking to obtain from the government a large appropriation for the ostensible purpose of improving the navigation.

Steamboat brought a load of freight to this post on the 20th of May last, and said would return immediately. Mr. Hardy has over three hundred tons of freight lying at La Paz awaiting transportation from this model company; and when it is a notorious fact that the river is as easily navigated from La Paz to El Dorado cannon as it is from Fort Yuma, to La Paz, no reasonable excuse can be offered for such conduct on the part of a company professing a great desire to open the river and supply the wants of a region rapidly developing in great mineral wealth. All the steamers they could place on the river could run down every trip loaded to utmost capacity with rock from the many ledges, and receive four cents per pound for freighting it.

A steam company could make fortune upon fortune at the business of freighting rock down the river. It is scarcely a year since the mines were di-covered in this section of Arizona, and now there are over one hundred thousand persons interested in them. Many of these ledges rival in richness the Comstock and Could & Curry, of Nevada Territory, and it is my belief that ledges will be discovered all the way from here to Salt Lake City, in the mountains of Colorardo, the Virgin and the Sevier rivers. The importance of opening the navigation of the Colorado river and establishing good wagon-road communication from head of navigation to Salt Lake City cannot be urged too strongly or impressed too firmly upon the minds of those in authority, who have the power within their hands of prosecuting such a work to a successful termination.

I passed through numerous bands of Indians from Mountain Meadow to this point, and had no trouble with them; on the contrary, found them the most inveterate beggars I ever met. In conversation with Indians at Muddy they charged the Mormons with the Mountain Meadow massacre, naming John D. Lee and Jacob Hamblin as two of the principal leaders in that affair.

 
[p. 25]

I have now communicated about all I deem worthy of note at the present time. The daily journal of the expedition will, when finished, embody every detail occurring from day to day, which, together with the map of routes, will afford complete information, and will. I trust, meet the approval of the general commanding, and I desire you to assure him that no effort has been spared on my part to make the expedition successful and to accomplish his wishes in regard to it. Whatever of hardships and suffering the expedition may have endured amounts to nothing, if success, in his judgment, has been accomplished by it. The health of the command is excellent.

Very respectfully, your obedient servant. GEORGE F. PRICE, Captin 2d California Cavalry, Commanding Expedition. Captin M. G. Lewis, Assistant Adjutant General. District of Utah. HEADQUARTERS DEPARTMENT OF CALIFORNIA, San Francisco, Cal., September 5, 1866. Official: R. C. DRUM, Assistant Adjutant General H. Ex. Doc. 111 3